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Home Recipes Creams, Lotions and Cream Cleansers (O/W - W/O) Shea Nut Whip
Shea Nut Whip
Today I've been playing around with unrefined shea.  While you can whip it up to a luxurious creamy texture just as it is, I wanted to try and get something a bit lighter & perhaps quicker to absorb.  So I introduced water into the mix.  Anyway, I am VERY pleased with the result.  A lovely whipped cream that is fairly slow to absorb but goodness, when it has (after about 5-10 mins), the skin is so very soft and feels really firm and deeply moisturised.  The following recipe includes some unusual materials (that I am experimenting with at the moment) but the same could be achieved by making subs wherever appropriate (have made notes on the recipe). 

Obviously there is room for development and since I only finished making it about 5 minutes ago, I don't know what it will be like in a months time (will it harden? will it separate?), this all remains to be seen.  Any hoot, I thought I would share this with you in the hope that it offers inspiration for your own developments...

Oils:

30g Unrefined Shea butter
10g Hazelnut oil (light and slightly astringent - good for circulation)
7g Macadamia oil (moisturising and a good choice for mature skins, absorbs easy)
3g Squalane
2g Emulsifying powder
.8g Chicory inulin (don't worry about this one - just raise your emulsifying powder up 5g instead - that is a guess since I've not tried it)
2g Cetly alcohol
2g Vitamin E

Water:

38g Water
2g Marine extract (don't worry about this one either - just add in your own water soluble extract at this level or raise your water content to 40g)
2g Glycerine

.5g EO or FO of choice (this is optional, I didn't use it as I am quite enjoying the aroma of the unrefined shea)

Preservative (according to manufacturers instructions)
Directions:

1)  In a seperate bowl, whip the shea, squalane, vitamin E and a slight drizzle of the oils with an electric whisk - Whip until light and fluffy (Don't do this in a very large bowl, you will lose too much around the sides of the bowl)

2)  Heat the oils, emulsifier and cetyl alcohol in a double boiler to 75 degrees. (make sure you give them a really good stir)

3)  In a seperate double boiler, heat the water (try to get the water slightly hotter than the oils)

4)  When both phases are hot enough, place a stick blender in the water phase and begin to stir the water while adding the oil phase in s thin, steady stream.  Continue to blend over the heat for a further 3 minutes.

5)  Transfer the bowl to an ice bath (while continuing to stir).

6)  When the mixture has cooled to around 25-30 degrees and is showing signs of thickening add in your additives and blend again.

7)  Then add your shea mixture carefully and continue stirring this time with an electric hand whisk.
8)  Add in your EO's/FO's (optional) and your preservative and continue to whisk for a further 5 minutes

9)  Then pop in the freezer for 5 minutes, whisk for 5, freeze for 5, whisk for 5 - keep doing this until you have the texture you want. 

10)  Jar and label (then begin the big clean up)
 
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